BAFANG Mid Drive Kit 750W review

? Have you ever thought about turning your regular bike into a powerful electric ride with a robust mid-drive motor?

BAFANG Mid Drive Kit 750W 1000W 500W BBS02B BBS-HD Electric Bike Conversion Kit 48V 52V Ebike Conversion Kit for 68-73MM Mountain Bike Road Bike with Battery and Display(Optional)

I decided to test this BAFANG mid-drive conversion kit because I wanted a reliable, high-torque motor that would fit my bike without a full factory e-bike purchase. In the sections that follow I’ll cover everything I learned: what’s included, specs, fitment, installation notes, performance impressions, battery and display choices, maintenance tips, and whether I think it’s worth converting your bike.

What’s included in the kit

I appreciated that the kit comes with most components needed to complete a conversion in one shipment. Below I describe the typical contents and give practical notes on what you might still need to buy or prepare.

I always check included parts against my own shopping list to avoid surprises mid-installation. The kit aims to be comprehensive, but there are a few optional items and compatibility points to confirm before ordering.

Item	Typical Quantity	Notes
Mid-drive motor (BBS02B or BBS-HD)	1	Available in 500W / 750W / 1000W options
Chainwheel / chainring	1	Multiple tooth counts available; choose for your gearing
Thumb throttle	1	Optional depending on local legal restrictions
Brake levers (motor cutoff)	2	Usually for front and rear hydraulic or mechanical brakes
Speed sensor	1	Magnets and sensor mount included
Headlight	1	Wired to motor controller for power
Bottom bracket removal tool	1	For fitting/removing the cranks and BB parts
LCD display (optional)	1	Multiple models available (VD03, EKD01, DPC010, etc.)
Battery (optional)	1	48V or 52V options if selected; otherwise not included
Cables and connectors	Set	Main harness, CAN bus connector (male XT60 on motor)
Misc mounting hardware	Assorted	Spacers, bolts; note 73mm screw kits may not be included

Key specifications at a glance

I like having a quick reference to the kit’s core specs before committing. These figures define what kind of performance and compatibility you can expect.

Below I summarize the main performance and fit metrics so you can compare with your current bike or other kits.

Spec	Details
Motor models	BBS02B (commonly 750W) and BBS-HD (heavier duty)
Power options	500W / 750W / 1000W
Voltage	48V and 52V supported
Torque	100 N·m (typical 500W), 120 N·m (750W), up to 160 N·m (1000W/BBS-HD)
Top speed	Up to ~45 km/h (depends on gearing and battery)
Bottom bracket fit	68–73 mm (JIS), also versions for 100 mm and 120 mm
Inner diameter fit	33.5–36 mm
Connector on motor	Male XT60
Brake compatibility	Disc brake or V-brake (chain-driven only)
Modes	Throttle, Pedal Assist (PAS), Manual pedaling
Display interface	CAN protocol displays optional; supports BAFANG GO app on some models

Compatibility and fitment details

When I measure my bike’s bottom bracket and brake setup first, I avoid ordering the wrong kit. This motor is designed to fit a wide range of bikes, but there are important limits.

I recommend confirming your bottom bracket width and inner diameter, and that your bike uses a chain-driven drivetrain (not belt) and either rim or disc brakes. This kit won’t fit bikes with internal gear hubs without additional work.

• Bottom bracket compatibility: Designed for JIS-standard hollow axles with 68–73 mm width and 33.5–36 mm inner diameter. There are versions supported for 100 mm and 120 mm too.
• Brakes: Compatible with disc brakes and V-brakes. You’ll need brake levers with motor cut-off switches if relying on the kit’s provided levers.
• Frame types: Suited for mountain bikes, city/commuter bikes, folding bikes (with correct BB), and recumbent trikes that use a standard chain drivetrain.
• Chainline: Expect to check and possibly modify your chainring choice and chainline for optimal shifting and wear.

Installation experience — what I encountered

I installed the kit on a 68 mm bottom bracket frame and I documented step-by-step tips that saved me time. If you like hands-on projects, this conversion is very satisfying; if you’re cautious about mechanical work, you might prefer a shop install.

I’ll summarize the main stages: removing cranks and BB, installing motor unit, routing wiring, mounting display and throttle, and syncing the PAS and speed sensor.

• Tools I used: standard crank puller or compatible removal tool, torque wrench, Allen set (including long reach), bottom bracket removal tool (included), cable ties, wire cutters, and some anti-seize grease.
• Time: Expect 2–4 hours for my first install, less if you’ve done similar swaps before.
• Common tricky points: aligning the chainring with the rear cassette to avoid chain rub, ensuring the speed sensor and magnet are positioned precisely, and securing the motor wiring to avoid chafing.

Wiring, displays, and software

I value the option to choose different displays because it changes how I interact with the system. The CAN protocol compatibility means I can use BAFANG’s displays or choose other optional displays they list.

I configured a DPC080 display and also tried the VD04 on a second bike. The DPC displays let me tweak motor parameters directly through the screen or via the BAFANG GO app without needing a separate USB cable, which is a real convenience.

• Display options: VD03, EKD01, VD04, VD618, VD61, DPC010, DPC080, and others.
• Features: PAS levels, current/power readouts, speed, odometer, trip stats, and parameter adjustments on some models.
• CAN bus: The motor uses a CAN bus protocol for advanced control and diagnostics with compatible displays. That enables more refined control and display of real-time motor data.
• Wiring note: The motor’s main power output uses a male XT60 connector. Make sure your battery or adapter matches or bring an adapter cable.

Battery choices, connector, and range expectations

I ended up ordering the 52V 20Ah battery option from the seller to keep things straightforward. The kit accepts a range of 48V batteries from 13Ah up to the 52V 20Ah option they list, but battery selection dramatically affects range, weight, and performance.

I recommend pairing battery capacity to your typical ride length and the power output you choose. Higher watt motors draw more current and reduce range if you rely heavily on throttle or high PAS settings.

Battery setup	Expected real-world range (mixed riding)	Notes
48V 13Ah	~30–60 km	Light assist, conservative PAS, depends on rider weight & terrain
48V 16Ah	~40–80 km	Better for regular commuting
48V 17.5Ah	~45–90 km	Good balance of capacity and weight
48V 20Ah	~50–110 km	Longer range, heavier pack
52V 20Ah	~60–120 km	Higher voltage gives more power and efficiency at higher loads

• Connector: The motor has a male XT60 connector. If your battery uses a different output plug (e.g., Anderson, Higo, or proprietary), you’ll need an adapter or to rewire the battery output.
• Range factors: Rider weight, terrain (steep climbs reduce range), chosen motor power (500W vs 1000W), ambient temperature, and how much you use throttle vs PAS.

Performance and ride feel

I found the motor’s torque and the way it applies power to be the key benefits of a mid-drive conversion. Mid-drive setups let the bicycle’s gears multiply motor torque, which improves hill climbing and wheel traction compared with hub motors.

I rode short commutes, long climbs, and mixed urban/off-road loops. Here’s what stood out:

• Torque and climbing: The 750W and 1000W variants deliver strong torque (120–160 N·m on higher models). Hills that used to force me to dismount became manageable and comfortable.
• Speed and efficiency: I saw top speeds approaching the kit’s listed range (~45 km/h) when using higher voltages and appropriate gearing, though real-world speed depends on your legal restrictions and how much you assist.
• Throttle vs PAS: I used both throttle and PAS modes; PAS is more efficient for longer rides because it supplements my pedaling, while throttle gives quick bursts or motor-only movement for starts and technical spots.
• Shifting sensibility: I advise easing off the pedals momentarily while shifting under heavy power to reduce drivetrain stress. Mid-drive motors can exert high torque on chainrings and cassettes, so drivetrain maintenance is more important.

Brakes, safety, and legal considerations

I took a conservative approach with the brake cut-off switches included in the kit and always installed them. The motor will shut power to the system when a brake lever is engaged, which is a key safety feature.

I checked local electric bike rules before using throttle and setting PAS levels. Laws vary and some regions limit e-bike assisted speed or prohibit throttle-only operation at certain power levels.

• Safety tips I follow: firm mounting of the motor, secure wiring, regular torque checks on cranks, and correct brake lever installation.
• Legal note: In many jurisdictions, a motor above 250W or assistance above certain speeds might classify the bike as an electrically powered vehicle requiring registration or special equipment. Check local rules before riding on public roads.

Installation troubleshooting and tips

I hit a few snags during install that I wish I had known in advance; these tips saved me from repeated trips to the shop.

I recommend these practical fixes for common issues people run into when fitting a mid-drive kit.

• Bottom bracket fit: If your BB is 73 mm, note that 73 mm screws may not be included — contact the seller in advance or source the correct screws before starting.
• Chainline: Use spacers to align the chainring and consider a narrow-wide chainring to improve chain retention on rough terrain.
• Speed sensor alignment: The magnet and sensor must be millimeter-accurate for the PAS and speed reading to be reliable. Use zip ties and test the wheel spin before tightening.
• Wiring slack: Route cables along the frame and secure them with cable ties to avoid wear. Keep connectors away from potential pinch points.
• Noise and creaks: Apply anti-seize or grease to the mating surfaces and torque bolts to the manufacturer’s recommendations to minimize creaks.

Maintenance schedule and long-term care

I treat the motor as a precision component and perform regular checks. Mid-drive systems require more attention to the chain and cassette than hub motors.

If you maintain the drivetrain and check bolts, the system will be reliable for years.

• Weekly: quick visual check of wiring, brake cut-off operation, and display function.
• Every 200–500 km: inspect chain wear, crank bolts, and chainring fastening torque.
• Every 1,000–3,000 km: deep clean and lube chain, and optionally check for motor firmware updates if your display supports it.
• Battery care: store at ~40–60% state of charge for long storage, avoid extreme temperatures, and use a compatible charger.

Pros and cons

I find a pros and cons list helpful when comparing purchase decisions. Below are the main strengths and trade-offs I experienced with this BAFANG mid-drive kit.

Pros	Cons
High torque and strong hill-climbing ability	Requires mechanical familiarity to install properly
Wide battery and display options, CAN bus compatibility	Heavier than hub motors; adds weight to the frame center
Multiple power output choices to match needs	Higher wear on drivetrain components
Optional battery included by seller for convenience	73mm screw kit might not be included by default
Plenty of aftermarket support and replacement parts	Legal restrictions may limit street use in some areas

Comparison with hub motor kits and other mid-drive options

I compared this BAFANG kit with typical hub motor systems and with other mid-drive models to see the trade-offs in practicality and riding feel.

I prefer mid-drive motors for mixed-terrain riding because of the torque and the ability to use gears. Here’s how the BAFANG kit stacks up.

• Versus hub motors: Mid-drive offers better hill performance and more natural handling (centralized weight), but hub motors tend to be simpler to install, cheaper, and put less stress on the drivetrain.
• Versus other mid-drives: BAFANG is an industry standard with many aftermarket parts and community knowledge. The BBS-HD is heavier duty than the BBS02B and better suited to high-load, high-power use.
• Versus OEM e-bikes: Converting your bike keeps your preferred geometry and components, but OEM e-bikes often have more integrated battery solutions and lighter total system weight.

Who should consider this kit?

I’d recommend this conversion kit to riders who enjoy DIY projects and want serious hill-climbing ability without buying a brand-new e-bike. If you commute daily on hilly routes, carry cargo, or enjoy mixed-terrain rides, this is a solid option.

I wouldn’t recommend it if you want a plug-and-play, minimal-install solution or if you lack mechanical comfort—though a local bike shop can usually handle the installation for a fee.

• Ideal users: commuters, mountain riders, bakfiets/cargo conversions, and people who want to keep their preferred bike frame.
• Not ideal for: riders seeking lightweight minimalism, or those who refuse to do basic mechanical maintenance.

Cost considerations and value

I analyzed the cost-to-benefit tradeoff and considered long-term ownership expenses such as drivetrain wear and battery replacement. The kit can be highly cost-effective compared to buying a comparable factory e-bike.

I found that adding a quality battery and a mid-range display yields a conversion that performs similarly to mid-level factory e-bikes, at a lower total cost if you already own a good bike.

• Upfront costs: motor kit, battery (if not included), and any additional tools or adapters.
• Ongoing costs: chain/cassette replacement more frequently, periodic battery replacement after several years, and potential display or sensor replacements.
• Value: If you love your bike’s fit and components, converting with a BAFANG kit often delivers better value than switching to a new e-bike with similar capability.

My personal riding impressions

After several months and hundreds of kilometers, I can share how it changed my riding habits and preferences. Installing this motor made my bike feel like a powerful, versatile commuter and trail tool.

I felt more confident tackling steep sections and carrying loads. The throttle helped in traffic starts, while PAS gave me smooth, efficient assistance for longer rides. The motor’s responsiveness and the ability to tune parameters through BAFANG displays made it feel like a thoughtful upgrade rather than a brute-force modification.

• Comfort: the weight is centralized and low, improving handling compared to rear hub packs.
• Usability: quick to switch between assist levels and throttle for different sections; display is easy to read and customize.
• Reliability: after regular maintenance, I experienced no major faults. Minor issues were usually wiring or sensor alignment related.

Frequently asked questions I often get

I get asked a few repeat questions from friends when they see my converted bike. I’ll answer the main ones here so you can decide more confidently.

• Do I need a special battery? No — the motor supports 48V and 52V batteries; the seller offers several options. Ensure the battery connector matches the motor’s XT60 or use an adapter.
• Will it fit my bike’s bottom bracket? Measure your BB width and inner diameter; it’s intended for JIS 68–73 mm and inner diameters 33.5–36 mm. Contact the seller if you need 73 mm screws included.
• Can I still use gears and shift normally? Yes, but avoid shifting under full throttle. Use lower PAS settings or ease off pedal force while shifting to reduce drivetrain strain.
• Is it legal where I live? Laws differ by country and state. Check local regulations for power limits and top-assist speed restrictions.
• How noisy is it? I found it reasonably quiet; some mid-drive whine under heavy load is expected, but it’s not intrusive when well-installed.

Final verdict

I’m glad I converted my bike with this BAFANG mid-drive kit because it gave me powerful, tunable assistance while letting me keep the frame and components I like. The BBS02B and BBS-HD options are both capable, and the availability of multiple displays and battery sizes makes the kit flexible for many uses.

I recommend the kit if you want strong hill-climbing performance, a robust parts ecosystem, and you’re comfortable doing a medium-difficulty install or paying a shop to install it. If you want the lightest possible system or absolute plug-and-play simplicity, consider hub motor kits or factory e-bikes instead.

If you’d like, I can walk you through a personalized compatibility check for your bike (bottom bracket size, cable routing, and battery choice), or provide a suggested parts list and step-by-step installation checklist based on your exact frame.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.